[caption id="attachment_487" align="alignleft" width="226" caption="Randazzo's Camilia City Bakery uses Mardi Gras colored sprinkles instead of cups of colored sugars to top their cakes; despite this apostasy, their cakes are preferred by many New Orleanians. Here's a link to order their cakes: http://bit.ly/fHVGir"]

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It happens to all Louisiana school children at some point—the realization that they alone receive Mardi Gras holidays, two days of (usually) glorious early spring weather spent out of the classroom catching beads and doubloons or at the very least eating king cake. And if you are a certain kind of child, that moment comes to mind later when you decide that it is worth living here no matter what the politicians or weather gods have up their sleeves; any other place would be just too boring!
More on Mardi Gras later; today we’re talking about king cakes, the gaudy circles of sweet dough decorated with icing and vividly colored purple, green and gold sugars that appear at most social (or work or school) gatherings during the carnival season. The tradition of the king cake dates to the colonial years of Louisiana, when cakes were baked for 12
th Night celebrations, the night when the three kings brought presents to the infant Jesus. A bean or porcelain baby doll, representing Jesus, was baked into the cake, and the person finding the doll or bean was to bring the cake to the next celebration.
[caption id="attachment_489" align="alignright" width="224" caption="Haydel's holds the Guiness record for baking the largest-ever king cake. To order their regular-sized version: http://bit.ly/hi3OK8"]

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New Orleanians in particular are loyal to certain types of king cake. My brother-in-law, Rick Sins, swears that he hasn’t had a real king cake since McKenzie’s bakery closed years ago. He decries the gooiness of today’s cakes, which add cream cheese and fruit fillings to the traditional cinnamon-graced sweet dough.
Like most culinary treasures in Louisiana, many of the most highly-touted king cakes come from hole-in-the-wall bakeries and drive-ins hidden in small neighborhoods or towns. I’ve driven to gas stations and convenience stores up to 40 miles away to test certain highly-praised cakes, and must say I’ve seldom been disappointed (but then, I LOVE the cream cheese and praline fillings).
[caption id="attachment_491" align="alignleft" width="226" caption="Gambino's has popular bakeries in both New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Like most, their cakes are shipped with an assortment of Mardi Gras beads and doubloons. To order: http://bit.ly/erEXvk"]

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My niece Amy Cyrex Sins, married to my nephew George Sins, is a Louisiana food enthusiast. She and George lost their house next to the 17
th St. Canal during Katrina, and in the aftermath she focused her distress-generated energy on writing an amazing cookbook:
Ruby Slippers: Life, Family, Culture and Food after Katrina.
The genesis of the book was her sadness at loosing all of the handwritten recipes she had received from her family and from my sister Janet (her mother-in-law), who is a fantastic cook. In
Ruby Slippers she reconstructs those recipes, and adds dozens more from favorite New Orleans restaurants. (To order a copy, go to Amy’s website: http://www.rubyslippersnola.com/home.htm). Below is her King Cake recipe:
½ cup warm water (115 degrees)
2 packages active dry yeast
½ cup plus 2 teaspoons sugar, in all
3 ½ to 4 ½ cups flour, unsifted
1 teaspoon nutmeg
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon lemon zest (grated lemon rind)
½ cup warm milk
5 egg yolks
1 stick butter cut into slices and softened, plus 2 tablespoons more softened butter
1 egg slightly beaten with 1 tablespoon milk
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Egg wash
1 one-inch plastic baby doll or bean
Icing:
3 cups powdered sugar
¼ cup lemon juice
3 to 6 tablespoons water
green, yellow and purple colored sugars
Pour warm water into a small bowl. Sprinkle yeast and 2 teaspoons of sugar on water surface and allow the mixture to rest for three minutes. Then mix thoroughly. Set bowl in a warm area until yeast bubbles and the mixture almost doubles in volume.
In another bowl, combine 3½ cups of flour, remaining sugar, nutmeg and salt. Sift into a large mixing bowl. Stir in lemon zest. Make a hole in the center of the mixture and pour in the yeast mix and milk. Add egg yolks.
Using a wooden spoon, slowly combine dry ingredients into the yeast and milk mixture. When mixture is smooth, beat in 8 tablespoons butter adding it one at a time. Continue to beat for 2 minutes, or until dough can be shaped into a ball.
Place ball of dough on a lightly floured surface and knead like bread. While kneading, sprinkle up to 1 cup more of flour one tablespoon at a time over the dough. The dough will begin to feel dry and less sticky. Keep kneading for about ten minutes until it is shiny. Brush the dough with softened butter. Cover and allow to rise for over an hour. It should be double the size after rising.
Remove dough from bowl and place on lightly floured surface and punch it down. Sprinkle cinnamon over the top, pat and shape the dough into long strands. Create a twist or a braid and create a circle. Place on a buttered baking sheet and lest rest for an hour or until it doubles in size again. Brush the cake with egg white and bake in a 375 over for 30 minutes until golden brown. Cool and put the bean or plastic baby inside the cake.
To make the icing, combine sugar, lemon juice and 3 tablespoons of water until smooth. If icing is too stiff, add more water. Spread the icing over the top of cake and immediately sprinkle heavily with colored sugars (purple, green and gold).
If you are in a hurry, or are making this with children, you can cheat and use canned Crescent rolls or biscuits flattened out into a rectangle, sprinkled with cinnamon sugar (you can also add cream cheese and fruit fillings at this point) and rolled up into a long rope instead. Make into a circle, bake and cover with icing and sugar as above. Not a real king cake, but fun and easy.